The land breathes here. It inhales the past, the stories etched into stone, the whispers of the wind through ancient rock formations. It exhales life, regeneration, the quiet pulse of nature reclaiming itself. Bushman’s Kloof is not a place to rush through; it’s a place to slow down, to let the wilderness wrap around you, to feel your own breath sync with the rhythm of the earth.

Tucked away in the Cederberg Mountains, this private wilderness reserve and wellness spans 7,500 hectares, once farmland, now a testament to the patience of nature’s restoration. Four farms were merged to create what it is today, and while remnants of its past life still linger – patches of farmland, the ongoing battle against invasive plant species like boar Jackson – the transformation is evident. Indigenous species like the Cape Mountain zebra have returned, the land flourishes with over 300 plant species, and the happiness of the animals tells its own story. Something is humbling about seeing what happens when nature is finally allowed to catch its breath.

That sense of time slowing down began the moment we arrived. In our suite, a welcome letter rested on the desk, a thoughtful touch that immediately made us feel at home, alongside some delicious homemade treats and our very own Bushman’s Kloof caps. The room itself was a step back in time, blending old-world charm with modern comfort. Rich wooden furniture, delicate antique touches, and earthy tones reflected the surrounding landscape. The four-poster bed—raised high with steps leading up to it—was impossibly inviting, the kind of place you melt into after a long day exploring. Even before arriving, our pillow preferences had been noted, a small but telling detail in Bushman’s Kloof’s quiet luxury.

With only 17 rooms at the main lodge and the exclusive-use Koro Lodge for families with younger children, Bushman’s Kloof offers a more intimate kind of safari. Here, there are no roaring predators, no hurried game drives in pursuit of a sighting. Instead, mornings unfold gently, with the choice of a guided drive or a self-led walk through the wilderness. Walking alone in a game reserve isn’t something many places allow, but here, you’re part of the landscape – wandering past grazing antelope, watching zebra flick their tails, feeling the hush of the wild settling around you. It’s not about chasing the highs, but about exhaling into the rhythm of the land.

Evenings belong to the wilderness. Londi, our guide for the trip and a fixture at Bushman’s Kloof for over 16 years led us on drives where golden hour bathed the landscape in a soft glow. Baby antelope played in the long fynbos, their energy light and carefree, as if carried by the breeze. As the sun dipped lower, we were pulled up by a dam, glasses in hand, watching the sky burn with colour before fading into deep blue. On night drives, we craned our necks to take in the spectacle above – stars splattered across the sky, the Milky Way a luminous river stretching endlessly overhead. Every inhale carried the scent of the wild, every exhale a quiet surrender to the moment.

But the true history of Bushman’s Kloof is written in stone. The Cederberg Mountains is home to over 7,000 recorded rock art sites, with 120-130 found on this reserve alone. Some of these paintings date back 10,000 years, telling the stories of the San and Khoi people. Fine-line depictions of eland and trance dances, bold finger-painted herding scenes – art that isn’t just history, but a living record of belief, survival, and connection to the land. Unlike other historical sites, these can’t be protected under glass; the sandstone needs to breathe, left undisturbed. “Look, but don’t touch,” Londi reminded us. We didn’t need to. The energy in these places was tangible. The past lingers here like a breath held just beneath the surface.

On the walk to one of the sites, Londi stopped to show us how the San people used the land for more than just paint. A small plant, its leaves delicate in his fingers, became a demonstration of the first paintbrush – chewed at the end to create bristles. Others were remedies: fever medicine, headache relief, and antidotes for scorpion stings. Then, the first soap – an unassuming leaf that, when rubbed between my hands, transformed into a frothy lather, releasing a fresh scent as it cleaned my palms. This knowledge, passed down through generations, still lingers in the air here, waiting to be shared.

Afternoons stretched in lazy luxury. Some found solace in the cool retreat of the spa, where natural fynbos and rooibos-infused products soothed sun-warmed skin. After my massage, I drifted to one of the reserve’s pools, lying back as lilies floated on the water’s surface, the heat of the day coaxing me into a soft, dreamlike haze. Others sought adventure – archery, fly fishing, mountain biking, each activity moving at its own unhurried pace.

One afternoon, I chose the water. Canoes waited at the edge of the dam, their bright colours striking against the glassy surface. Paddling out, we moved through rippling reflections of the ochre cliffs, the only sound the occasional splash of an oar. The wind fought us as we pressed on, but determination (and a desire for discovery) kept us going. Then, tucked away behind a bend, we found it: a hidden cove, where a small sandbank rose like an island, untouched and serene. We pulled up, stretching out on the warm sand, the golden afternoon light wrapping around us. It felt like a secret place, a moment stolen from time. Even the baboons, ever the opportunists, seemed to approve – ambling along the shoreline, playing in the trees, always watching.

Dining at Bushman’s Kloof is an experience in itself; rooted in sustainability, and crafted with care. At the Makana, where dinner is served beneath a thatched roof and candlelit glow, much of what appears on the plate comes straight from the retreat’s gardens. Each morning, the chef walks through rows of herbs and vegetables, bowl in hand, selecting what’s needed for the day. Fish is sourced through the Abalobi app, ensuring direct support for small-scale South African fishers. Meat comes from local farmers, and anything left over – whether composted into the gardens or shared with subsistence farmers – never goes to waste.

But Bushman’s Kloof isn’t just about preserving the past; it’s about safeguarding the future. Conservation runs through every aspect of the reserve. The Cape Leopard Trust works to protect the elusive big cats roaming these mountains. The Sand Fish Project, an initiative started in 2014, has been working to restore a migratory fish species endemic to this region—once down to just eight making the journey, now steadily recovering. Even the endangered Clanwilliam cedar trees are nurtured here, grown from saplings before being reintroduced to the mountains they once thrived in, in collaboration with the Botanical Society and Western Cape Nature Conservation. Most importantly, education is prioritised through collaborations with local schools to show children the importance of ecosystems, flora and fauna, ancient rock art, and protecting these important lands.

Sustainability is embedded in the details: filtered borehole water eliminates the need for plastic bottles, greywater is recycled to irrigate the gardens, and glass replaces plastic wherever possible—even seemingly plastic items, like shower caps, are made from biodegradable cornstarch. The staff, over 100 of them, live here with their families in a close-knit village, their presence deeply intertwined with the land they care for. Every team member is given volunteer days each year to support causes they care about, reinforcing the idea that sustainability isn’t just about the land – it’s about people, too.

On our final morning, I took one last walk, following a path laid out by the reserve. Alone, with only the whisper of the wind and the occasional rustle of an animal in the brush, I breathed deeply, taking in the scent of sun-warmed fynbos. This is a place that doesn’t demand attention but quietly works its way into your soul. A place where nature is not just something to witness but something to be part of.

A place that, if you let it, will breathe life back into you.

W: Bushmans Kloof
T +27 87 743 2399
E: Reservations

Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International