December 11, 2024
Savouring Excellence: Emma Blunt Reviews The Cocochine
The Cocochine, Larry Jayasekara’s newest venture, opened its four-storey doors in March 2024 and has since already captivated the stomachs of those with a love for global cuisine.
Nestled discreetly on Bruton Place in the beating heart of Mayfair, The Cocochine invites guests into a world where old-school hospitality meets fine dining artistry, all whilst being wrapped in environmental commitment and social responsibility.
Naturally, I was excited to visit, and had the opportunity to join for lunch, spending an afternoon savouring the exquisite setting that serves as the perfect canvas for Jayasekara’s immersive and indulgent menu.
So what can you expect from a dining experience at The Cocochine?
The menu inspiration
The Cocochine menu is meticulously ingredients-led and purposefully simple. Jayasekara himself confirms “It’s produce that inspires me”. During his global travels, Jayasekara always makes sure to meet local producers and learn about ingredients from them. His innate curiosity about food from different countries offers a constant expansion of his palette of flavours, which is inevitably infused into the development of his dishes, complemented by his classical techniques carefully honed over years in Internationally acclaimed kitchens across the UK and France.
The exclusive use of regenerative farmland in Northamptonshire and access to the seas around Tanera Mòr in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides solidifies the commitment to hyper-seasonal ingredients of the highest quality; the core of the concept of The Cocochine. By fostering a direct farm-to-table connection, the restaurant minimises its carbon footprint and champions regenerative agriculture – a system that goes beyond sustainability to actively restore ecosystems.
By further prioritising minimal food waste, Jayasekara and his team aim to craft dishes that utilise the whole ingredient thoughtfully. For example, all vegetables and fruit peel go into stocks and for use in different sauces, whilst even the animal skins are used to make rugs and seats in The Cocochine’s more casual sister close, the Rex Deli (serving classic all-day bistro menus).
The Cocochine’s preference for an à la carte menu reflects its unique philosophy of flexibility, personalisation, and sustainability, which sets it apart from many fine dining establishments that lean heavily on tasting menus. This approach also aligns with the restaurant’s ethos of old-school hospitality, creating a relaxed, unhurried environment, where the menu changes in line with the seasons and the team’s evolving experiences.
The decisive decor
Spread over four floors, each level of the restaurant offers a distinct atmosphere, whilst all carrying the same painstaking attention to detail and celebration of art. The understated design employs leather and solid wood to create a classic style. Thoughtful details, such as leather-clad handrails, custom-made lampshades, a single-mould marble drinks counter, original artworks by greats such as Warhol and Mapplethorpe, and even wildflowers adorning the tables grown directly in the fields of the regenerative Rowler Farm, create a relaxed yet exclusive and traditional dining environment.
The wine cellar is adorned with the classics from Burgundy and Bordeaux, and a selection of iconic wines from around the world, alongside boutique and small production varieties. Hidden away here is also a small nook bar for those private pre-dinner drinks whilst looking directly into the beautiful cellar.
The ground floor is the main dining room, with eight tables and a total of 28 seats. Tables are reserved exclusively for single use during service. This ensures that guests can enjoy their meals at a relaxed pace, free from the pressures of quick turnovers that dominate modern dining.
Up another level is the intimate seven-seat chef’s counter, where diners can gaze directly into the open kitchen, and interact with the chefs, creating a connection and more meaningful dining experience. It was particularly important to Jayasekara to have the kitchen here, in a large space filled with natural light, rather than being hidden away underground, because “having the kitchen physically in the centre of the building reminds us that the food is the heart of what we’re doing”.
The top floor houses the opulent private dining room, with unrivalled high ceilings, plentiful natural light and a grand dining table seating up to 14 guests. The room itself takes you away from the bustle of Mayfair, holding a special spark that redefines expectations of private dining in the heart of Mayfair. It offers an incredible feeling of ‘home’ – from the comforting warmth of the open fire housed in the original Sarrasine-styled fireplace to the coffee tables adorned with artwork books, and bespoke armchairs and furniture which invite you to sink back and relax. It’s colourful and some may say ‘quirky’, but incredibly sophisticated and finished to the highest quality. Art from Hamiltons Gallery founder, Tim Jefferies’ private collection adorns the walls, further elevating the ambience with rare and valuable works.
It was here that our lunchtime dining journey began – indulging in some canapés and champagne before heading down to our table in the main dining room.
The Polished plates
Taken through an afternoon at The Cocochine with Restaurant Manager; Tiago Correia and Head Sommelier; Masahito Suzuki, was a delight, and by no means a light affair.
The canapés are the epitome of intricate bites and innovative preparation. As beautiful as the artwork that surrounds the rooms, offerings include a 36-month-aged Comté and black truffle doughnut, topped with 72-month-aged Parmesan, and a tartlet featuring carrot purée, pickled red onion, and Norwegian cured and smoked reindeer heart. My personal favourite was the Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, which exemplifies the restaurant’s commitment to showcasing the purity of high-quality ingredients with minimal embellishment. The restaurant’s exceptional Head Sommelier, Masahito Suzuki, started with a Billecart-Salmon brut, with an incredibly delicate and fresh flavour profile to complement the variety of canapés.
A surprise showstopper that accompanies every dining experience at The Cocochine is the Caramelised onion brioche buns; the perfect interlude between canapé and starter. Delicate layers of sweet caramelised onion and thyme, glazed with brown butter and sea salt for an insanely rich, savoury-sweet flavour. Delicately alongside a choice of whipped brown butter or a truffle-infused option with crispy onions. Fresh from the oven, they were something I never knew I needed and now I cannot stop thinking about them.
To start, I couldn’t resist opting for the “Egg in a Forest” – both visually striking and some of my favourite flavours. The creation blends a mushroom parfait with a melody of autumnal mushrooms and truffle, encapsulating the earthy and indulgent flavours of the forest. Other popular options include Japanese Otoro Tuna with pan-seared foie gras and Golden Oscietra caviar, a luxurious dish that melds richness with umami perfection, as well as Hand-Dived Scallops from Tanera Island, presented with pumpkin and a delicate dashi for a touch of Japanese elegance.
For mains, I had to try the Rowler Farm Celeriac en Croute – poached celeriac, wrapped in mushroom, and puff pastry and finished with a Madeira jus and salad, offering a refined plant-based option and bursting with autumnal flavour. Served alongside a 2019 Barbaresco Bordini, the Nebbiolo-based wine’s vibrant acidity, and structured tannins, make it an excellent complement to the dish’s earthy, rich flavours.
For those meat lovers, the Rowler Farm Rack of Venison is always a favourite – Accompanied by sauces of Jersey oysters and cloudberries, this dish pairs robust flavours with unique accompaniments, spotlighting venison sourced from The Cocochine’s regenerative Rowler Farm. And you even get to pick your steak knife to use. Choosing from a variety of different coloured leather-bound knives, these small details all showcase the highest fine dining experience The Cocochine offers.
Not normally having a high sweet tooth, The Cocochine dessert menu may have just converted me. The two favourites for me started with Lemon meringue with an incredibly tangy lemon curd, lemon sorbet and lemon verbena to finish off, topped with crispy meringue and crafted in a beautifully precise and artistically presented dish. The second favourite, and the restaurant’s most loved dessert, has to be the 66% Chocolate Cremeux, with a delicate biscuit, topped with golden Oscietra caviar. Creating a decadent blend of sweet and savoury, the dessert achieves a balance reminiscent of salted caramel, with the caviar adding a luxurious touch to the rich chocolate flavour. Chocolate and caviar may sound like a dangerous pairing, but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it, honestly!
To finish, another surprise of delicate mini cardamom madeleines with coffee or tea, after which it’s near impossible to fit anything else in and you’re left feeling sensationally satiated.
Final thoughts
Every element of The Cocochine is thoughtfully considered, and from the moment you enter to the moment you leave, the emphasis is on personal connection and old-school hospitality.
Pairing this with ethical sourcing that translates into gastronomic triumphs, in a setting that celebrates the legacy of artistic innovation, the fine-dining restaurant is a true testament to how tradition and modernity can harmonize in the world of haute cuisine.
Jayasekara and the team are ready and waiting to welcome you for your own Cocochine experience!
W: The Cocochine
E: Reservations
T: +44 20 3835 3957
Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International