July 23, 2024
Pied à Terre – a romance of sustainability and culinary excellence
In the enchanting world of London’s fine dining scene, Pied à Terre weaves an unassuming romantic tale of culinary excellence; a love letter to the art of gastronomy that, once read, will captivate anyone.
Standing proud as London’s longest serving independent Michelin Star restaurant, Pied à Terre plays homage to its name, truly feeling like a ‘second home’. It combines the devotion and flair of its forever owner David Moore, with the technique of Executive Chef Phil Kearsey, and the magic of Head Sommelier Ciaran Bagchus, to remain a bastion of fine dining; a timeless romance.
With sustainability at its heart, it’s the restaurant’s love affair with nature and conscious cooking which captivated me most to pay a visit. It’s woven seamlessly into the way they operate, think, imagine and ultimately execute, without any hesitation. I had the absolute pleasure of indulging in their 10-course tasting menu with wine pairing, which has easily stolen a place in my heart and solidified my stance that Pied à Terre is a must-visit culinary destination.
The fine dining experience begins with the fluttering excitement of any first date, filled with promise and intrigue. Escorted to the intimate dining area, we are invited into a world where time no longer exists; where we only have eyes for the 10-courses that follow. We will get onto the food shortly, but it has to be said that one of my favourite things about the restaurant experience was the atmosphere created – service is understated and hushed, yet precise – the staff expertly manage a perfect harmony of professionalism with personalisation, proving that authenticity is the true essence of love. None more so than the restaurant’s owner himself, David Moore, who’s devotion to Pied à Terre is clear as he leads from the front, sleeves rolled up, taking on service with his staff.
Onto the main event – the culinary courtship. With inclusivity and sustainability at the restaurant’s core, Pied à Terre has offered a vegan menu since before it became ‘fashionable’, whilst ensuring all dietary requirements are catered for. We opted for the omnivore and plant-based tasting menus, which promised 10-courses of pure excitement, giving us the true flavour of what Pied à Terre is all about.
Each element has personality infused into it – the wines are ever more delicious because of the love and passion that Ciaran (Head Sommelier) dedicates to the art of wine pairing, ensuring the quality from favourite regions persist, while the dishes are a constant creation and reflection of Phil Kearsey’s (Executive Chef) focus on taste, texture and technique. With the menu constantly evolving in line with seasonal ingredients available and innovative minds from the kitchen, the restaurant is continually pushing the boundaries. Wine pairings also evolve to match the changing menu – a choreography of care, intention and emotion that keeps the romance alive, as diners are continually surprised and delighted by unexpected flavours and artistic presentations.
Much like the start of any romance, I won’t put ALL my cards on the table by divulging the essence of every dish on the tasting menu. Just know that it was incredibly hard to choose a favourite. Executive Chef Phil Kearsey has done a sensational job showcasing seasonal ingredients, encapsulated in lighter to richer sauces to add depth and complexity, with fantastic flavours and freshness throughout. Each dish tells a story of passion and devotion, expressing the true essence of its components with clarity and sincerity. This authenticity shines through in particular in the restaurant’s plant-based menu, where vegetables, grains, and legumes are celebrated for their natural beauty and flavour, creating a melody of pure, unadulterated love.
A trio of canapes to start really set our expectations high, and we weren’t disappointed with what followed. 3 starter dishes, 3 main dishes and 3 dessert dishes, all of which showcased a different ingredient, paired with some of the most exquisite wines which complemented each flavour combination on the plate perfectly; our smiles really did say it all.
A few dishes that really stood out included the Orkney Scallop (with Mushroom ketchup, King Oyster, Périgord Truffle and Sauce Vin Jaune) and corresponding plant-based dish – the Dutch White Asparagus Bavarois (with Pickled Green Strawberries and Piedmont Hazelnut). This course was paired with a beautiful Chateau de Messey, aged in used oak giving creaminess as a texture (perfect for the meatiness of scallops and richness of asparagus) but still keeping citrus notes and acidity. The unbelievable freshness of the scallop is owed again to the restaurant’s focus on sustainability in the supply chain – locally sourced, they visit their suppliers to ensure the highest quality and non-destructive modes of collection are adhered to (ie diving for scallops rather than using bottom trawling).
Another standout course was the Merrifield Dry Aged Duck, alongside Barbecue Peach, Young Turnip, Violet Mustard, Duck Liver Brioche and an Amaretto Sauce, poured perfectly for us at the table for added effect. The corresponding plant-based dish was also a winner, as someone who loves mushrooms – Textures of Lion’s Mane (pickled, barbecue and tempura) on a bed of Barley with a mushroom essence, Pine Nuts, Sea Vegetables and a beautiful Madeira Foam. This course was paired perfectly with a Casa Castillo Las Gravas. The definition, balance and refined tannins (with a pungent mineral sensation in the textured finish) of this red wine complemented the sauce of both the omnivore and plant-based dish seamlessly.
Whilst the whole experience was nothing short of perfect from start to finish, David Moore is transparent by not claiming to be perfect when it comes to sustainability. But, much like every true love story, it’s about choice, not perfection.
For example, the restaurant:
● Has a partnership with Gift Trees, an environmental project that sets out to plant trees to restore rainforest cover, supporting climate change resilience in tandem with providing good, green jobs for the lowest-income communities. For each table bill, the restaurant supports the planting of one tree.
● Only work with suppliers that share their core values, with full transparency on how and where produce is sourced, and utilising recyclable and reusable packaging.
● Innovates and champions zero waste through their dishes – utilising the whole ingredient and showcasing it on the plate.
● Saves the disposal of over 16,000 plastic bottles per year, switching to a water filtration and reusable bottling system.
● Has a partnership with ‘Who Gives a Crap’ toilet paper company, which puts profits to helping people who don’t have toilets in lower-income countries, as well as feminine sanitary products in every toilet, whose profits go to supplying sanitary wear for women in period poverty.
● Uses hand wash and creams that are all made from grape extract from a vineyard in Sussex, so local sourcing really does extend beyond the dining experience itself.
It’s clear that Pied à Terre is focusing on constant learning, improving, growing and ultimately choosing to ensure their impact extends far beyond the plate.
So in the grand romance of fine dining, Pied à Terre really does stand as a testament to the beauty and artistry of a well-told love story. The unique blend of innovation, sustainability, authenticity, and quality creates a romantic symphony of flavours and sensations that resonate long after the last course.
As the curtain falls on my own dining experience at Pied à Terre, I am forever left with the lingering warmth of my own happily ever after.
W: Pied à Terre
T: 020 7636 1178
Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International