I love to travel. The greatest journeys, however, are by train.

Rail journeys are wonderful and all are in some way exceptional – the cross-section of life they carry, the scenery they pass through or the distances they travel.

In an age when it is seen as if the romance has been leached out of travel and the demand for “slow travel” grows, train journeys are bringing travels to less-trodden places often in grand style.

The demand is not new, but these kinds of journeys are more and more on traveller’s wish lists and the trend now for rail travel is to slow down and see more and enjoy the journey. It is not so much about reliving the past but finding novel ways to be present. This certainly includes iconic journeys such as South Africa’s Rovos Rail which is a privately owned and family-run business and ranked as one of the top luxurious train journeys in the world.

Rovos Rail has a style of its own, with train tours that have a blend of earthy African safari and traditional luxury. The journey allowed me to relive the romance of a bygone Africa on a nostalgic 3-night 1400km expedition from Pretoria, South Africa to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, the famous Victoria Falls on the mighty Zambezi River in Zimbabwe.

Journey start

This adventure begins at the gracious, historical red brick station built in 1948 in Pretoria, South Africa. The property is also home to an engrossing railway museum packed with rail memorabilia. A visit to the museum and a tour of the railway sheds gives passengers a glimpse of the behind-the-scenes workings of the company and sets the mood for the journey ahead.

The train, being more than twenty-six carriages, is pulled by one and sometimes two diesel engines. It used to be pulled by steam but replenishing the engine with water along the way became logistically impossible and the company had to change to using diesel.

With great excitement and the efficient settling of travellers into their private sleeping suites, the train then winds its way northwards crossing the tropic of Capricorn en route to the Zimbabwean border.

Elegant carriages

The use of traditional furnishings, fine wood panelling and period décor throughout, transports guests immediately back to a time of relaxed, elegant and grandeur fashion of rail travel of yesteryear. The wood-panelled sleeping coaches offer guests a choice of spacious air-conditioned twin or double-bedded Royal, Deluxe or Pullman suites, all with every modern convenience alongside the period Edwardian features. Each coach has been meticulously restored and has its personal history -some date back as early as 1911.

The first four hours after we left Pretoria the train ambled along at a slow speed, stopping regularly. I was surprised how slow the train travelled, rarely more than 80km an hour and mostly around 50 kph. The border formalities at Beitbridge, Zimbabwe were efficiently and effortlessly handled by the train manager and staff and we did not even have to leave the comfort of the train.

So what makes a train journey exceptional?

Rovos Rail has wonderful, attentive staff and provides a genuine 1920’s train journey experience. Food is an important part of the Rovos experience and the two dining cars are both beautiful. The polished wood, quality light fittings and carpets all provide a grand ambience of luxurious travel of a bygone age. The dining coaches have two and four-seater booths and the interior designer envisaged a train packed with sophisticates in dining suites and cocktail dresses hence the 1920’s vibe.

Dinner is served by staff in formal black-tie suits and cocktail dresses making for an elegant and sophisticated evening. For guests, formal dress for dinner is encouraged but during the day it is relaxed and safari or casual attire is the norm.

The meals are exceptional with attentive service – lunch and dinner are refined four-course meals and each course is paired with fine South African wines. Breakfast is a more relaxed affair where guests can choose from a breakfast buffet and order traditional hot food.

The train is all-inclusive including the mini bar in the suits. As my husband and I were celebrating an anniversary, sparkling wine and a small gift surprised us in our room and then again at the dinner table. This thoughtfulness was a splendid example of their attention to detail and exceptional customer service.

Falling asleep on a train is a category of its own. The train cars are built to the exact standards of a 1920’s train so there are no modern suspensions or sound deadening systems, so this then gives Rovos Rail travellers the genuine experience.

Game Park stopover

On day three we travelled along the world’s longest stretches of straight railway line, 114 km, before traversing Hwange National Park. With about 100,000 elephants, Zimbabwe has the world’s second-largest population after Botswana. More than half of these elephants roam freely within and outside the vast, sprawling and unfenced Hwange National Park.

Before stopping for a game drive in Hwange National Park, wild animals can occasionally be spotted from the train. A private game lodge called The Hide, had numerous game vehicles waiting to take us for an exhilarating one-hour game drive. Their knowledgeable game rangers eagerly answered all our questions and included so many interesting pieces of information encouraging visitors to not only look out for the Big Five but to enjoy the trees, grasses and small creatures of a game park. The experience ended with sundowners set up with wine, beers and soft drinks as well as delicious hot and cold snacks, all enjoyed around a crackling campfire. As darkness set in, we returned to the train and were greeted by a line of welcoming train staff offering cold flannels and a glass of sparkling wine or fruit juice before boarding the train.

Time to unwind

The train has an observation car which is a prime photography spot and is outside the air-conditioned bar and lounge area. This space also allows visitors to enjoy the sights and sounds of Africa. Watching the rural countryside from either inside or outside, the world blurs into a watercolour of greens and browns, punctuated by the occasional splash of vibrant wildflowers.

Rail journeys take one to the heart of local experience, as well as being safe, environmentally friendly and scenic. As train journeys stick to a set route, they spring no surprises allowing one’s mind to wander and give time for reflection. When travel distance is long, a train journey allows one time, and the interest to strike up conversations with strangers. A long, slow journey is an interruption of reality which creates an atmosphere that cannot be experienced with other types of journeys.

The journey ended in the town of Victoria Falls which is in the northern part of Zimbabwe bordering Livingstone in Zambia. African dancers greeted us at the quaint historic railway station and all luggage was loaded on and taken to the Victoria Falls hotel where some guests stayed and others ventured on to the numerous wonderful lodges in or around the area.

What better way to see the world than by train the Rovos Rail journey is certainly a wonderfully joyous occasion, from the bustling rural towns to the serene African countryside. The journey is filled with moments of excitement, discovery, luxury and introspection.

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Written by Diane McLeish