The best stories unfold in moments slow – In people, in details, in hearts that glow.

When Ahnasa Luxury Travel set out to craft my ultimate safari, they didn’t just look for luxury – they sought a narrative. A place where conservation and sustainability is not an afterthought but the beating heart of the experience. That’s why they brought me here – to El Karama Lodge, a safari written not just across the golden landscapes of Laikipia but in the warmth of its people, the pulse of its wildlife, and the thoughtful touches that make every moment feel both intentional and effortless.

Before there was a lodge, before there were sundowners or game drives, there was simply a family and a vision. Conservation has always been at the heart of El Karama’s story – long before ecotourism became a buzzword. Decades ago, Sophie and Murray Grant’s family began protecting this land, restoring its ecosystems, and proving that conservation thrives not through fences and separation but through coexistence.

What started as a working ranch in the 1960s became Kenya’s first private conservancy – El Karama – a model for how land, wildlife, and people can thrive together. And today, that legacy is woven into every part of the experience here.

From my own experience, I can say without hesitation that El Karama Lodge may be a place you come to for adventure, but you will return for the feeling of belonging.

Small is Beautiful, Small is Powerful

El Karama Lodge is small, yet mighty and true,
Where intimate moments shape the view.

In a world of sprawling, corporate safari operations, El Karama Lodge stands as proof that ‘small’ is beautiful, ‘small’ is powerful, and ‘small’ is the future of sustainable tourism.

Owner-operated and family-run, every decision here is made with intention. Growth is organic, driven by what benefits the land, the wildlife, the community, and the guests seeking an experience, not just a stay. Success isn’t measured in numbers; it’s seen in the strength of the people who work here, the way the landscape flourishes, and the lodge’s ability to grow without ever losing its soul.

And that sense of belonging runs deep. Take my guide, Robinson, as the perfect example. Born and raised on this land, he grew up watching his parents work at the El Karama Farm HQ. His journey began with tending cattle, before transitioning into guiding, a path that feels as much a calling as a career, his story a privilege to listen to.

Many of the team have been here since the beginning, and those who weren’t born in the conservancy come from the surrounding areas, their knowledge of the land woven into them through generations. If the bush is the theatre, the team are the storytellers – each with their chapter interwoven with the conservancy’s own – from Neambura’s warm smile at breakfast to the chefs who turn local ingredients into culinary magic.

The memories remain in the small, exquisite moments: A hot water bottle tucked into my lap on a crisp morning game drive or in my bed each evening; The way the team remembered my pre-bed tea order before I even had to ask; And their infectious laughter as they “hunted” me down on the running track when I casually mentioned needing some exercise – turns out, the chase is just as fun as the catch.

It is these quiet, personal touches that make El Karama Lodge unforgettable.

A Setting of Thoughtful Luxury

Even the setting stands in a world of its own,
Where nature and comfort are seamlessly sewn.

My home during my stay was Nilotica Private House – an exclusive-use retreat that feels like a world of its own. Slightly removed from the main Lodge’s eight cottages, it offers privacy for families or small groups, wildly immersive and designed for connection. Even the smallest corners invite pause and reflection – like the hidden swings, the perfect spot to ‘hang out’ after an exhilarating game drive, letting the bush wrap around me like a well-worn safari jacket as curious monkeys swung by to check out the latest visitor in their territory.

True to the Lodge’s ethos, luxury here isn’t about what’s added but what’s honoured. Riverbed-quarried rock shapes the bath and shower, while fallen trees from the conservancy become bedposts that cradle your rest. What can’t be repurposed from the land is sourced within Kenya – like Cinnabar Green’s organic soaps, quite literally ‘powered by plants.’

The Grant family’s authenticity is woven throughout – Sophie curates each space with warmth and character, while Murray’s bronze sculptures, cast from real animal footprints and skulls, offer conservation frozen in time. Every aspect of the lodge uplifts the community, from job creation to local artisans, ensuring tourism’s benefits stay rooted in Laikipia. Nowhere is this clearer than in the team itself; like Irene, who began in housekeeping, was trained in massage, and now masters her craft with hands that tell a story of opportunity, growth, and care.

I couldn’t have felt more connected to place and purpose.

A Safari Beyond Sightings

At El Karama Lodge, it’s not a safari race,
It’s feeling the wild at nature’s own pace.

No staggered encounters, no manufactured drama, no safari ‘checklist’. We sat, we watched, we listened. A herd of elephants moving through golden light on our evening game drive. A lilac-breasted roller flashing across the sky – nature’s own flying paintbrush. A jackal and her pups weaving through the grass as dawn breaks over our walking safari – a moment so pure, so unfiltered, I forgot the modern world existed.

And then, the gerenuk (the ‘giraffe antelope’) – or as I now think of them, nature’s ballerinas. It was my first time seeing these impossibly elegant creatures, their long necks and delicate frames like something out of a forgotten fable. We stopped the vehicle and just watched. One rose onto its hind legs, stretching impossibly high to nibble fresh leaves, defying gravity with effortless grace. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, the bush offers up another surprise.

Safari options here are plentiful – game drives and walking safaris in a conservancy home to four of the Big Five, plus endangered species like the Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra. Some drift off beneath a sky spilling with stars on a fly-camping adventure, lulled by the sounds of the night. Others explore on horseback, moving quietly as giraffes pause to watch them pass.

But safari at El Karama Lodge isn’t just about what you see – it’s about how you feel. I found my rhythm in quiet afternoons at Nilotica, cooling off in Kenya’s first eco-swimming pool as wildlife wandered past in silent companionship. I crossed paths with the lodge’s resident monitor lizard, sweated off another delicious lunch at the gym, and shared laughter (and fierce competition) over a game of Mancala with the team. Down at the stables, I spent time with the gentle horses before heading back for an afternoon of stillness, the hush of the bush settling into my bones.

El Karama Lodge also quietly debunks the myth that safaris aren’t for children. Here, the bush is a playground of imagination and discovery, in the form of the much-loved Bush School. And for parents? A rare gift – time to slip away for a spa treatment or a long, lazy lunch by the pool. This commitment to young minds extends beyond visiting families, with the lodge investing in the next generation of conservationists through school visits, mentorship, and internships.

Evenings unfold at secret sundowner spots, where I felt like I was in the live remake of The Lion King, watching the sky blush over the savannah before returning to camp. We gathered by the fire, where stories flowed as easily as the drinks in hand, laughter rising into the night air. And as the final embers faded, the bush settled into its rhythm – the nocturnal symphony of a land that never truly sleeps.

Food For Thought

What’s grown, what’s sourced, what’s served with grace,
Honours the land, this sacred place.

At first glance, the food might sound simple. But this is where El Karama Lodge shines – taking what can be grown from the land, and elevating it into something unforgettable.

Everything fresh is sourced within a strict 60-70 km radius or grown right here in their wild shamba, where the team uses drip irrigation to sustain crops through the dry months. Grass-fed beef and sheep from a neighbouring farm, hand-line caught fish from sustainable fisheries on the coast, vegetables from the conservancy itself – it’s all carefully considered, all designed to keep supply chains short and impact long-lasting.

But once again it’s the smallest touches that linger. The surprise bush breakfast on the banks of the river where hippos surface and sink whilst we watch our chef make breakfast right in front of our eyes; the flowers from the shamba that don’t just decorate the plate – they become part of the dish; how each meal begins with a smoothie-based shot of goodness and a different type of freshly baked bread; and watching the magic happen in the open lodge kitchen, where young explorers don aprons and bake treats alongside the chefs.

The ripple effect of this thoughtful approach extends far beyond the plate. Take Lucy, a trusted supplier for over 15 years. With her income from El Karama Lodge, she bought land, educated her family, and built a sustainable future. This is true sustainability – not just cutting waste or installing solar panels, but making sure every decision uplifts the people and places that make a lodge like this possible.

And the experience is still evolving. The Lodge’s Wild Shamba is being transformed into an interactive space where guests can plant, harvest, and taste the results under the shade of guava trees. A new experience that will celebrate slow, intentional cooking, and yet another reminder that at El Karama Lodge, everything is real, tangible, and rooted in the land itself.

Conservation Never Sleeps

Conservation thrives through action and care,
A hands-on approach that’s always aware.

Take the elephants. As they strip Boscia trees and push them over, the delicate balance of the woodland is shifting. To counter this, El Karama Lodge wraps Boscia trunks in wire to prevent debarking, safeguarding vital habitats for secretary birds and nesting species. They’ve also established pilot exclusion zones, giving young trees a fighting chance to grow, while a major riverbank restoration effort, powered by local school children planting Indigenous species along the Lodge’s internal riverfrontage, is bringing indigenous species back to life. This is conservation in action, where education and impact go hand in hand.

And it doesn’t stop at the fence line. They’ve designed leopard-proof, flatpack bomas for livestock – ingenious, modular systems that keep predators out while allowing sheep and cattle to graze freely. The concept has proven so effective that it’s now being adopted elsewhere, a testament to conservation that serves both people and wildlife.

Now, a new chapter is unfolding, with the Laikipia region being explored for its potential role in conservation’s next frontier – one that could see expanded habitats supporting keystone species (such as the black rhino) and ecosystem resilience. But, as always, the challenge isn’t just about land – it’s about people. Ensuring long-term success means balancing ecological needs with community collaboration, and navigating the complexities of shared landscapes.

Because, ultimately, conservation without people means nothing. El Karama Lodge understands this better than most. After all, that’s how they began – by creating something that worked for the land, for the people, and for the future.

A Story That Stays With You

As El Karama Lodge’s tale grows each day,
My chapter ends – until my next stay!

Each guest takes home their own version of El Karama Lodge’s story. Some take home the thrill of their first lion sighting, others the warmth of shared laughter over dinner or the quiet magic of a morning walk. Some are inspired by Sophie’s handcrafted linen, timeless and made for safari life, while others pack her cookbook, eager to recreate the lodge’s flavours. Many tuck away a handmade children’s book by Lavinia, a keepsake of the wonder found here.

For me what lingers longest is the feeling – of something rare, something deeply personal, something small yet as vast as the savannah itself.

If this is the kind of safari that speaks to you, Ahnasa Luxury Travel can craft it just as they did for me. Their expertise lies not just in finding the perfect places, but in understanding that the best stories aren’t just told, they are lived.

Company Contacts

Phera Jai (Co-Founder | Travel Designer)
E: Phera
T: +254 782 060 166 / +254 799 402 868
W: Ahnasa

Kalpana Jai (Co-Founder | Sales & Marketing)
E: Pana
T: +254 731 995 506

Sara Jamal (Travel Designer )
E: Sara
T: +1 724 984 7026

Social media

Instagram
Facebook
Linkedin

Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International