March 26, 2025
A Culinary Love Letter to the Cape: Emma Blunt Dines at JAN Franschhoek
The experience at JAN Franschhoek begins long before the first bite. This is not simply a meal – it is a love letter to the Cape, a poetic tribute to its landscapes, its people, and the traditions that shape its cuisine. Set against a breathtaking backdrop of lavender fields, vineyards, and mountains, this intimate dining experience unfolds like verses on a page, where each dish is a carefully chosen word, each sip a lingering pause. Seasonality, sustainability, and South Africa’s rich culinary heritage are woven into every course, penned with the precision of a masterful storyteller.
I was honoured to experience this firsthand – to taste a letter composed not in ink, but in flavour, each course revealing a new stanza, crafted with thoughtfulness and care.
So let’s turn the page.
The afternoon began with anticipation, a quiet thrill that built as we arrived at the La Motte Wine Estate. The sun hung high in the sky, casting a golden glow over the vineyards, and the scent of warm earth and ripening fruit lingered in the air. Glasses of MCC sparkled in the light, clinking gently against the hum of conversation. A love letter always begins with a first whispered thought, a delicate introduction. Here, the first words were plated delicately before us: a biltong lamington, or for those who preferred, its earthy counterpart, a mushroom lamington. A playful introduction, a nod to nostalgia, each bite dissolving like a promise of what was to come. Then came a smoked tomato consommé, its warmth laced with fynbos, followed by a walnut, green fig, and boerenkaas mousse – a love note to the land itself, to the way ingredients can be coaxed into something that feels familiar yet entirely new.
The scene had been set, and just as we settled into the rhythm of expectation, a classic blue VW kombi rolled into view. There was something cinematic about it, something mischievous as if we were being whisked away into the pages of a story we hadn’t realised we were part of. And leading us through this unfolding narrative was Rayno Kroeger, our gracious host. Now in his second season at JAN Franschhoek, Rayno carries a passion for curating an experience that surprises and delights at every turn. His attention to detail is impeccable, and his warmth is effortless.
Outside the window, the lavender fields stretched out, the midday breeze teasing the purple blooms into lazy movement. The air grew richer, fragrant with sun-warmed herbs, guiding us toward the small Veepos cottage standing in the midst of it all. It felt almost secret as if it had been waiting for us all along. A bowl of lavender water was offered to cleanse our hands, a moment of ritual that spoke of intention – of slowing down, of washing away the outside world so we could step fully into this unfolding script.
Inside, the space flickered with warmth despite the bright afternoon light. A fire crackled gently in the open hearth, its presence more ceremonial than necessary, adding a touch of theatre to the room. A long, communal eighteen-seater table stretched through the space, inviting strangers to become companions through the language of food. Above us, bundles of dried lavender hung from the ceiling, intertwined with neatly knotted napkins swaying gently with each movement in the room. The scent of the fields had followed us inside, blending with the aroma of what was to come.
Then, the first true stanza of this love letter was placed before us, accompanied by the soft, jazzy hum of a carefully curated soundtrack and then instant chatter of those around the table. Vetkoek, waatlemoen konfyt en spitskop botter beelde. A bite into the past, into the comfort of home kitchens and hands that had long perfected the art of deep-fried dough kissed by sweet preserves. This was an ode to childhood, to the warmth of memory, to everything that makes you close your eyes as you chew, just for a moment longer.
The next course arrived, a tribute to the garden: tomato in a herb garden, delicate yet bold, as if plucked from the earth only moments before. The Vin de Joie 2024 danced alongside it, crisp and clear. Pap, slak, and gremolata followed a dish that carried within it the ethos of this place – of waste transformed into wonder, of sustainability woven into the flavour. The La Motte Chardonnay 2023 cut through its richness with precision, every sip heightening the balance of earth and indulgence.
Plates arrived like verses in a poem, unfolding at the perfect pace. Frozen apple, Klein River Gruberg, West Coast mussels, and smoked haddock milk – a juxtaposition of temperature, of brine and cream, of unexpected harmony, paired with JAN White 2024, crisp and intentional.
Then came the heart of the meal, the dish that never leaves the menu yet is never quite the same: kookkos. As the plates arrived, Chef William stepped forward, pausing for a moment before speaking. His words carried the weight of tradition, of time spent refining a dish that is deeply personal yet universally familiar. He spoke of the inspiration behind it, of the way it evolves with each season, of how it represents the heart of South African cooking – warm, unpretentious, rooted in memory. It was served with La Motte Syrah 2020, deep and full, the kind of wine that holds the weight of history’s most passionate love letters.
The cheese table finally had its moment. Ushered into another room, we were left stunned by the selection of kaas en konfyt gathered from La Cotte Inn, a testament to patience and craft. Then, the final act – peppermint crisp tart, a dessert that has graced South African tables for generations, now reimagined yet still carrying the unmistakable essence of what makes it so beloved. The Boekenhoutskloof Noble Late Harvest wrapped it in warmth, sweet and lingering, the last brushstroke on a letter not yet quite complete. A final indulgence – moerkoffie and mignardises, the ink drying on the last page.
But this love letter was never just about the words, or the food, or the setting. It is about the hands that write it.
At JAN Franschhoek, talent is not just welcomed – it is cultivated. Chef JAN is passionate about ensuring that every member of the kitchen, led by Head Chef Lara van Heerden, has the opportunity to refine their craft, to learn, and to push the boundaries of what South African cuisine can be. Chef William, standing before us, was a testament to that philosophy, his confidence and skill honed in an environment that celebrates curiosity and creativity.
Here, the kitchen hums with more than just skill – it hums with purpose. This is a place where careers are not just built but nurtured, where growth is part of the fabric of the experience itself. Every season, the menu shifts with the land, and the people shift with it; learning, adapting, and returning home from JAN’s other kitchens in Nice or the Kalahari with new wisdom to bring back. The team is small, and intimate, and each person is part of the story being told here.
Sustainability is not a trend but a promise. Ingredients are sourced with care, packaging is stripped away wherever possible, food waste is almost nonexistent. What little remains is sent to the compost heap at La Motte Farm, returning to the earth, completing a cycle of giving and receiving.
As we stepped back into the classic blue VW kombi, the midday light now slanting into the golden hour, the lavender fields glowing in its warmth, it was clear that this was not just a meal.
It was a story told in courses, a memory inked in scent and warmth and the gentle clink of glasses raised in quiet appreciation.
And like any great piece of writing, it was something to be carried with us long after the final word was written.
W: JAN Franschhoek
T: +27 021 876 9115
E: Information
Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International