The first safari was a walking safari. Long before Land Cruisers rumbled across the savannah, before cameras clicked from pop-top roofs, our ancestors explored Africa on foot – tracking wildlife, reading the land, moving in rhythm with nature. To walk is to return to the roots of safari itself.

When I spoke to Ahnasa Luxury Travel about seeking a stripped-back, slowed-down safari – one that felt more connected, more intentional, they knew exactly where to send me: Karisia Walking Safaris and Tumaren Camp in Laikipia, Kenya. Based within the Tumaren private conservancy, Karisia offers a rare kind of safari, where guests can embark on a multi-day mobile walking expedition through the wilderness, or stay at their permanent Tumaren Camp, surrounded by the vast open landscapes.

Many guests choose to do both, combining adventure with relaxation and whilst my limited time meant I fully embraced Tumaren Camp and everything it has to offer, I already know I’ll be back for the full multi-day mobile experience.
The Story Behind Tumaren

The landscape of Tumaren, now alive with wildlife, had not always been this way.

In 2005, Jamie and Kerry made a pivotal decision: they purchased the land, transforming Tumaren into a private conservancy and giving them the opportunity to shape its future. When they acquired it, the land was completely exhausted – overgrazed, poached, stripped of its wildlife. Instead of fencing it off, they restored it through partnerships – paying local landowners conservation fees for mobile safaris, collaborating with community ranches for rotational grazing, hiring former poachers as rangers, and ensuring that conservation was led from within, not imposed from the outside.

The result? One of the most successful rewilding projects in Laikipia. Tumaren is now home to some of the highest densities of endangered species like Grevy’s zebras and reticulated giraffes, as well as the lesser-known but equally vital species like aardwolves.

Yet what makes Tumaren special isn’t just the wildlife – it’s the way you experience it, which I found out first-hand.

A Camp That Breathes with the Land

As soon as we arrived at the camp the wildlife had already gathered, inviting us into their world. Reticulated giraffes moved with effortless grace, and Grevy’s zebras flicked their tails in the golden light. It was a scene so wild it felt almost scripted – except here, nature writes its own story.

Tumaren Camp itself is shaped by the land. Originally Kerry and Jamie’s family home, it remains deeply personal, from Kerry’s father’s bronze sculptures, the handmade bird feeders Jamie has placed throughout the camp for guests to catch morning glimpses of his favourite species, to the seven solar-powered tents that open to sweeping views of the conservancy. The décor is understated but full of character – locally woven rugs, hand-carved wooden furnishings, and open-air showers where oryx and giraffes occasionally wander past as you rinse off the dust of the day.

It’s luxury without excess – because here, immersion is the true indulgence.

The team, many of them Samburu and Maasai, greeted us not as guests, but as part of the family. Before I had even stepped fully into camp, I was handed a cool iced tea, a refreshing towel scented with local herbs, and the kind of knowing smile that said, “Slow down. You’re home now.”

And so, I did.

Finding Our Feet in a Land That Walks the Talk

Mornings arrived not with an alarm, but with the natural symphony of Laikipia – doves cooing, hornbills calling, the soft rustle of a breeze through the acacias. Tumaren Camp quietly champions birdwatching – so often overlooked on safari, yet the purest way to tune into the land’s hidden rhythms. I stepped out of my tent to sip coffee while watching the iridescent flash of sunbirds darting between branches, their calls and movements telling a tune: which predators passed through in the night, how the seasons shift, where the pulse of the wild beats strongest.

As the first golden light touched the landscape, we set out with camels in tow. Here, camels are not just a novelty but an integral part of life – used by the Samburu and Maasai for transport and as livestock in place of cattle, which can be more ecologically damaging. The team prioritises their welfare, with every effort made to ensure they are well-treated and respected. I even gave camel riding a try – more graceful in theory than in practice. As for milking one? Let’s just say it’s a skill I require more practice to perfect.

Unlike a game drive, a walking safari is about learning to read the land. In a vehicle, the engine drowns out the whispers of the bush. On foot, every sense sharpens. Every broken twig, every displaced stone, every imprint in the dust tells a story that you are a character in. It’s humbling. It’s empowering. It’s the reminder that there’s no shortcut to discovery.

Our guides, Gabriel and Tatiun, ensured every step meant something. Their understanding of the land was intrinsic, their presence a steady reassurance. Gabriel taught us to track – a skill passed down for generations, requiring patience and intuition. To the untrained eye, just marks in the dirt – to them, a full script of who had passed by, when, and why. We crouched over fresh lion tracks, tracing their movements. We never saw them, but we felt them. Their presence was in the air, in the patterns on the earth, in the way every hair on the back of my neck stood up. The experience of tracking – of knowing rather than just looking – is what makes walking safaris so electrifying.

By mid-morning, we arrived at a secluded breakfast spot. It was a moment of simple luxury – warm water and soap for washing hands, fresh coffee, homemade muesli, porridge, eggs, and bread straight from the camp’s kitchen. Everything here is thoughtfully sourced – what can be grown is grown, and what can’t be is sourced locally. Even the meat comes from nearby farms, ensuring the supply chain supports the communities around them. Every detail had been considered, not in excess, but in thoughtfulness, a reflection of how Karisia Walking Safaris defines hospitality.

Later, we turned our gaze upwards, scaling one of the many rock formations that dot the conservancy. Rock climbing has become an unexpected highlight for guests and staff – both young and old. The views from the top stretched endlessly, the sense of accomplishment only heightened by the land rolling out below us, untamed and endless.

A Different Kind of Luxury: Embracing Connection

Afternoons at Tumaren Camp are unhurried, shaped by the rhythm of the land rather than the ticking of a clock. Some guests retreat to the 20-metre pool, a tranquil front-row seat to wildlife wandering past. Others, like me, take the opportunity to sit with Samburu women at camp, learning the intricate art of beading.

Their hands move with practised ease, their laughter warm as they guide me through patterns that carry deep cultural meaning. Beading isn’t just decoration – it’s identity. Every colour, every design, and every technique tells a story of status, heritage, and personal journey.

Evenings are reserved for walks before sunset when the golden light stretches across the plains. One evening, we found ourselves face to face (well, face to knee) with a tower of reticulated giraffes, their impossibly long lashes blinking down at us as they plucked leaves from the acacias.

We ended our final night atop a towering rock formation, dinner under the stars, lanterns flickering, the Milky Way spilling across the sky in a celestial display that left us all momentarily lost in wonder; before listening to the stories of the land from the team.

That’s the magic of Tumaren. It’s not just about seeing – it’s about understanding. Although one thing I never quite managed to understand was how I kept losing every game of draughts to Tatiun—his strategy, it turns out, was as sharp as his tracking skills.

Walking the Talk: Conservation That Thrives Through People

What it means to truly conserve this little piece of the world cannot be underestimated. Unlike national parks backed by government funds, privately run conservancies like Tumaren sustain themselves entirely through tourism. Every guest who walks these trails isn’t just experiencing the wild – they’re directly funding its protection.

Karisia Walking Safaris has always been about immersion, whether you’re on a multi-day mobile safari that takes you deeper into the wild, out on a guided walk or game drive from the main Tumaren Camp, or trying out one of the many activities on offer; you become part of the story.

But more than that, Karisia has always been about people. The team; many of them local Samburu and Maasai guides who have grown up tracking wildlife since childhood; aren’t just leading safaris; they are the custodians of knowledge, the keepers of traditions, and the heart of what makes this experience so unique.

Beyond employment, Karisia’s reach extends deep into the community. They work directly with local primary and high schools, supplementing meals to improve nutrition and academic performance, and even supporting an ultimate frisbee team that has become a source of pride in the community. Teaching biodiversity and conservation to children is a priority, alongside the joy of simply reading to them, and the impact is tangible – when resources are scarce, the hunger for knowledge is even greater.

Karisia also provides seasonal dry grazing for livestock from the community ranches that share the land, ensuring that both cattle and wildlife can thrive. Unlike traditional grazing, where cattle are left to roam freely, here it is done with careful coordination – before the rains, in controlled areas, ensuring that the land has time to regenerate. This balance between livestock and wildlife is key to maintaining Laikipia’s fragile ecosystem.

This is what true conservation looks like. Not just protecting land, but creating a future where wildlife and people thrive together.

Taking the first step

Walking here isn’t just a mode of transport. It’s a metaphor. Just as walking forces you to slow down, to notice, to be present, it also mirrors the way conservation, community, and sustainability must be approached – step by step, with patience, intention, and respect.

For those ready to take a step towards a different kind of safari, Ahnasa Luxury Travel can help craft an experience that not only immerses you in the wild but leaves a positive impact long after you’ve gone.

And if you’re wondering how you can contribute? Bring a book – one you loved as a child, one you read to your own children. Imagine reading to a group of eager students beneath the shade of an acacia tree, sharing stories across continents, passing down knowledge in the oldest way we know how.

Because sometimes, the smallest steps make the biggest impact.

Company Contacts

Phera Jai (Co-Founder | Travel Designer)
E: Phera
T: +254 782 060 166 / +254 799 402 868
W: Ahnasa

Kalpana Jai (Co-Founder | Sales & Marketing)
E: Pana
T: +254 731 995 506

Sara Jamal (Travel Designer )
E: Sara
T: +1 724 984 7026

Social media

Instagram
Facebook
Linkedin

Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International