Sicily stands as a panoramic viewpoint over the world. Its vast multicultural history has undoubtedly formed its unique cuisine; where every dish tells a story of conquest, trade and cultural fusion; turning the island into a culinary crossroads.

This blending of influences makes Sicilian food an ever-evolving cuisine that applies an unmistakably local lens, yet is universally inspired. No-one knows this more than chef Ciccio Sultano and his flagship restaurant, Duomo.

Situated in the UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Val di Noto, in the Southern hillside town of Ragusa, Duomo is a perfectly hidden secret amongst the cobbled streets and Baroque buildings. It may be hidden in plain sight, but the restaurant and Sultano himself are held in the highest regard, with Duomo shining bright as one of only three two-Michelin star restaurants on the island.

I was incredibly privileged to experience the essence of Duomo, trying out their full tasting menu over the course of an afternoon. With unparalleled flavours, Sicilian innovation, and an unwavering sustainable mindset, it will remain as one of my favourite memories from my short time on the Island.

Sultano’s Sicilian Sense:

To understand the experience of dining at Duomo, you first need to understand Chef Sultano himself.

With Sicily as his teacher, he had no formal culinary training, and instead his self-taught hunger for knowledge is still very much the fire that drives him to this day. From working on his family farm at age 11, a seven-year apprenticeship at a pastry shop from age 13, to opening his first restaurant in 2000, Sultano possesses something many chefs desire – a complete understanding of what people love to eat: truth, consistency, precision, beauty.

His mindset is something many should be inspired from; one of deep respect for Sicilian culture paired with boundless creativity and an innovative spirit. When considering sustainability and ecology, he emphasises that both are derived from the human factor – an ecology of the mind, a respectful and curious way of treating people and the reality around us.

Far from a ‘checkbox exercise’, working in a truly eco-sustainable way is contingent on an ecological consciousness, which is in turn tied to how much we feel we belong to the world. This mutual trust and respect for nature and its rhythms stands the test of time, and is reflected not only in the quality of the cuisine, but in the atmosphere created in Sultano’s restaurants – a feeling of genuine warmth and worldly wonder, which sees guests returning year on year.

Sultano’s conscious respect for the planet is showcased on the plate through well-curated research for the raw materials and processes of transformation and conservation that respect their characteristic taste and health properties. Working alongside local producers who share the same values and mindset, Sultano has established quality partnerships, many of whom have been working with the restaurant for over twenty years.

But it doesn’t stop here – sustainability is a journey, not a destination, one which Sultano and his team are fully embracing beyond the plate, in their daily practices. From reducing transport emissions thanks to sourcing local and fresh, to banning single use plastics and purifying water straight from the tap, reducing food waste by using all of the ingredient in innovative ways during the cooking process, reducing electricity usage, and even in the production of biodegradable bags embellished with Sultano’s green logo.

Sultano himself feels “sharp as a lemon, because that’s how my cuisine has always been. Flavours of the land, the sea, herbs, fruits, meats, and spices which are also thoughts, states of mind, characters”.

So come with me to dine at Duomo…..

Step inside:

Enter into an interior design that marries Sicilian baroque elegance with modern minimalism. Four cosy rooms are lit up by warming lamps to create an inviting ambiance that balances opulence with intimacy. From the perfectly crisp linen tablecloths, to the incredible crockery and stemware, the design perfectly mirrors chef Ciccio Sultano’s culinary philosophy – rooted in tradition but with a contemporary touch and unwavering dedication to quality.

An Experience Like No Other:

Trying out the full tasting menu with wine pairings at arguably the best table in the restaurant (right next to the kitchen in its own private room), we spent the afternoon on a journey through Sultano’s mind, and his love for the contradictions of Sicilian cuisine.

Whilst the tasting menu is a blend of vegetable, fish and meat seasonal dishes, the restaurant can also cater to vegetarian and other dietary requirements if needed, and so we sampled both the tasting menu and a bespoke vegetarian tasting menu during our visit.

Each year, a new menu is created around a different theme. The restaurant is closed for a period of one month at the beginning of each year, dedicated to developing a new and unique menu. There is no resting on your laurels as part of the Sultano team, and it shows in the reputation maintained, being recognised for always knowing how to improve.

“I feel sharp as a lemon” is the theme for 2024 and whilst the theme doesn’t change for that year, the menu is adapted to the seasons. For this year, each dish has an element of ‘zestiness’, not just in reference to citrus fruits, but in unique flavours that bring freshness and awaken every sense in each mouthful.

So let’s dive into the dishes…

Right from the outset we knew we were in for an afternoon of understated storytelling and theatrics. Sultano proudly states that his cuisine “is made to be enjoyed with the eyes and fill you up with a burst” and that’s exactly how we felt by the end of our experience – ready to burst in the best way possible, with twists of tastes that perfectly combine consistencies, colours and ingredients.

Starting with a ‘Welcome from the Kitchen’, bite-size creations of complete precision; uncluttered, engaging and delightfully delicious which set the tone for the journey ahead. The kitchen’s very own version of a welcome ‘hug’, which we lept into, arms wide open. This included a perfectly plump Nocellara olive stuffed with Cosaruciaru bean and fried sage, along with squid ink crisp topped with a concoction of fresh squid and seaweed. The restaurant serves freshly prepared ancient grain bread alongside oil sourced from a local town, and yeast butter topped with tomato powder which is the epitome of ‘melt-in-your-mouth’.

To start with the series of main dishes, Coque Scampi was a succulent success. Sultano and his team showcase infinity here – everything circulates and everything returns. The dish is a stand against food waste. Whilst the body of the scampi is used in another dish, the Coque Scampi is served in the head of the crustacean, marinated with spices and fruits that bring the freshness to the dish. For the vegetarian menu, Endive; a beautifully fresh salad with elements of milk almond, dried tomatoes, pistachios and that ‘zesty’ element from citrusy zagara flowers.

Next up, Triskelion; amberjack with paceco melon, mussels las with venture liquor with a cold almond and fig sauce. This was a creation of incredible colour and flavour pairings. For the vegetarian menu; Triskelion of aubergine with a pistachio emulsion, and paceco melon, with a refreshing element of elderflower. Sultano sources fruits and vegetables in his dishes from Proxima, a social cooperative just outside of Ragusa. Chosen for its virtuous impact: the organisation gives work to those who have been exploited and products are grown according to seasons. Avoiding the use of chemical fertilisers and herbicides means crops grow at a slower and more natural pace, allowing adequate time for flavours to develop fully and ensuring a more robust and authentic flavour profile.

Throughout the menu Sultano puts his own spin on traditional dishes. None more so than the next two we tried:
Heart Caprese; A modern take on the mozzarella and tomato caprese salad, Sultano’s version turns the mozzarella into the body of the scampi from earlier dishes. Again, minimal food waste is emphasised in the sauce, a cold broth made from scraps of tomato and tartare of raspberries grown in Chiaramonte. Everything is transformed into a triumph Sultano’s own spin on the ras el hanout spice mix, a nod to Arab culture which is a prominent influence on Sicily.

Leaves Lasagne; When people think of Italy, lasagne often claims one of the top spots on every food list. But in an ever evolving world, Sultano ensures there is at least one fully vegetarian dish on any menu – and in this case it is the reimagining of the traditional lasagne. The layers of classic lasagna use delicate “leaves” crafted from seasonal ingredients, sliced paper-thin and prepared with precision. These layers bring the freshness and colour of the ingredients to the forefront, creating a lasagna that is vibrant, light, and brimming with natural flavours. Aubergine takes the form of pasta, whilst the ‘meat’ of the lasagne is a ragu of chickpeas, lentils, carrots and celery. Its minimalist, layered appearance resembles the natural landscape of Sicily, giving us a taste of the island’s essence.

Pasta is also firmly on the menu in two dishes and is all made in-house. First up is ‘Sea urchin Pasta’ – homemade spaghetti with sea urchin cream and hazelnut in a bitter mustard and chard leaf sauce, topped with tangerine oil and lemon powder, one of the most apparent nod’s to the theme of the menu. For the vegetarian menu, an incredible short pasta in a hibiscus reduction, mushroom umami and topped with a heavy helping of truffle. The second ‘Pasta and Seafood’ dish was quite a showstopper, served directly at the table with precision and Sultano’s storytelling. A sweet butternut squash soup contained an array of pasta and seafood. The Busiate pasta pays homage to the ‘grandmothers of Sicily’ – traditional, and-twisted pasta from the Trapani region in Western Sicily. Its distinctive spiral shape, robust texture and earthy flavour beautifully holds sauces, making it ideal alongside the butternut squash soup. Combined with freshly caught clams, shrimp, and cuttlefish ragu, this dish was a complete flavour explosion with every bite.

A palette cleanser of Black truffle ice cream (yes, you read that correctly) is a staple that remains on every Duomo menu. Eaten as an ‘ice cream sandwich’ the balance of sweet and savoury is simply sensational.

Sultano’s first and final meat dish; ‘Sicilian Lamb’, is served alongside a stuffed aubergine, with a reduction of lamb, oregano flowers and dried tomato. Sultano works with very limited meat producers, and this particular cut is from lambs raised by Giuseppe Grasso in Eastern Sicily. The cut is served on the bone, having cooked off all the fat and left the meat meticulously medium-rare, the buttery texture is complemented with a seasonal marinade. The vegetarian offering pays homage to the pumpkin, a perfect autumnal vegetable, with pumpkin green olive extract and fermented rice.

Dessert is delicate and delicious, and comes in more than one serving. First, ‘I Feel Zesty’ is to be eaten in a vertical way, making sure you sample each layer in one spoonful. A fillet of lotus flower on the bottom gives the dish its acoustics, topped with the fruit of the lotus and marsala ice cream, using liquid nitrogen which flash-freezes the mixture, trapping air and reducing crystallisation – the result is unparalleled creaminess.

The final desert brings you back to your childhood in a reimagined way – three elements of oil, salt and grain act as the bridge to the Mediterranean, where everything began. It comes together with white chocolate, salted caramel ice cream, white fennel powder, oil and salt – a combination of sweetness, exotic fragrance and acoustic pleasure.

A final farewell from the kitchen sees the experience end how it began; with an array of miniatures of complete precision – for me, the star is the mini cannoli that stays true to tradition, and takes you full circle back to Sicily with creamy ricotta from a producer that has been active since 1928.

No tasting menu would be complete without exquisite wine pairings and Duomo delivers in abundance. Sommelier Simone Cutugno is perfectly poised to pair each dish. The wine list consists of mainly Sicilian wines which reflect the island’s volcanic soil, coastal breezes and sun-soaked climate. Red wines are showcased in the most beautiful way, as well as a special natural wine from 2013 to pair with the Heart Caprese – with only 1000 bottles in circulation it is a real treat for the tastebuds.

The wine menu also includes exclusive collaborations only served in the restaurant, such as the Cusumano 700 brut and a completely secret recipe labelled ‘Per Cento’ – a liquor of liqueurs, born from an idea by Sultano in collaboration with Edoardo Strano. This incredible concoction is served at the end of the meal and not even Cutugno knows the full recipe!

A Sharper Than Sharp Service:

Feeling as sharp as a lemon goes beyond the food created at Duomo – it’s interwoven throughout the service delivered. Led by restaurant manager, Riccardo Andreoli, the service team work alongside the kitchen in a partnership that is governed by the same understanding of respect and trust. Their comradery seeps into the warmth of every dining experience, into the professionalism of every dish served, and into the unforgettable moments that forge a place in your memory.

Chef de rang, Marta Scerbo explained the “profound and enriching experience” she has had from her time working with Sultano and Andreoli. She highlights it is “a testament to the power of learning in a hands-on environment, where personal and professional boundaries merge to create a holistic growth experience”.

Final Thoughts

A fig leaf symbol can be seen throughout the restaurant and in its dishes. The fig tree has deep roots in the Mediterranean, and its fruit has been a staple in Sicilian cuisine for centuries. In Sicily, the fig leaf is a powerful symbol, representing both abundance and simplicity, qualities central to the island’s food culture.

At Duomo, the symbol signifies the essence of Sultano’s approach—an exploration of Sicilian heritage, purity, and the idea of “clothed simplicity.” Just as the fig leaf once symbolised modesty and natural beauty, it now embodies the spirit of Duomo’s cuisine: modest ingredients elevated to extraordinary expressions.

With today’s tradition being yesterday’s innovation, there is a modest yet playful flair in every dish at Duomo which Sultano infuses with his love and respect for his beautiful home. It is a pleasure to experience, and a must-visit for anyone seeking to sample the heart of Sicilian cuisine.

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Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International