London’s culinary landscape boasts a rich and ever-evolving tapestry of diverse flavours, but few restaurants have maintained both authenticity and innovation over decades. UMU is one of the few, and in September 2024 it marked its 20th anniversary. Holding onto its Michelin-star for almost a decade to date, the infamous Kyoto-style restaurant shows no sign of slowing down on its mission to serve a traditional Japanese dining experience to its guests.

I went along to celebrate the restaurant with its 20th anniversary dinner, alongside a handful of other excited guests and equally excited staff. This is easily one of the best Japanese culinary experiences I have ever had the privilege of trying. UMU, long celebrated for its rare commitment to kaiseki, the multi-course meal that traces its roots to Kyoto’s imperial cuisine left both my stomach and heart completely full.

Making my way to the restaurant was an experience in itself – Umu is discreet in everything it does, and finding the front door is no exception. Tucked away on Bruton Place, its unassuming facade blends seamlessly with the surrounding buildings, offering no grand signage or obvious markers. Pressing the almost hidden button to watch the front door slide open feels like uncovering a well-kept secret known only to those in the know.

Stepping inside, the space exudes a refined, minimalist elegance. inspired by traditional Japanese design, the restaurant features natural materials including a plethora of polished wood that evoke a sense of serenity and harmony. Soft lighting casts a warm glow over the intimate space, while understated, clean lines reflect a Zen-like simplicity. The decor subtly complements the restaurant’s culinary focus, creating an atmosphere of calm sophistication that enhances the artistry and precision of the cuisine.

The open kitchen takes centre stage, with a handful of tables all around, and space to sit at the countertop, which, to my mind, is the best seat in the house. Being able to watch the chefs at work is a perfect performance of culinary creativity right in front of your eyes.

For this special evening, former UMU Executive Chef Yoshinori Ishii returned to cook alongside current Executive Chef Ryo Kamatsu, and we were all in for a tremendous treat. Following a series of speeches, the UMU experience began, taking the form of a parade of seven sensational courses alongside the finest selection of Sake wines in collaboration with World Sake Imports and handpicked by UMU’s Head Sommelier, Ryan Johnson.

Before diving into the food itself, I have to mention some of the other aspects of this restaurant experience that I appreciate.

Firstly, the dedication to shining a spotlight on seasonality, sustainability and artistry. The restaurant’s commitment to ethically sourcing the freshest ingredients, many of which are caught or farmed in British waters, has set UMU apart by withholding these values from source to plate. This deep respect for nature and harmony with the environment is a defining feature that means the flavours of each fish are unparalleled.

Alongside this is the restaurant’s unwavering commitment to traditional Japanese food preparation, ensuring the five traditional techniques (raw, steamed, grilled, fried, and simmered) are executed with traditional equipment and tools, and forming the basis of all the restaurant’s menus. The restaurant focuses on lifting some simple dishes by completely perfecting flavours, while also pushing boundaries with innovative ways to reinterpret the concept of other Japanese dishes. In this way, they manage to both lead the way for an exciting future, whilst honouring the past.

And last is the restaurant’s commitment to its staff. Staffed exclusively by locally-trained chefs, UMU prioritises training its team to be the very best, all of which ensures dishes are prepared with considerable care and respect. This is also true for the flawless service – where your glass is never empty, every staff member shows their passion and knowledge for the menu and the team dances the well-rehearsed routine of anticipating your every need, without feeling overbearing.

Onto the food – the main event that heightened every sense – from the exquisite taste to balancing flavours and textures, visual precision of artistic plating and incredible unique aromas.

First up was a trio of Japanese ‘finger foods’ composed of a rice cracker with sweetcorn puree, tuna tartare with wasabi and seaweed, and a crab croquette with truffle, served alongside Masumi sparkling sake. This playful introduction offered light, delicate bites with layers of flavour and texture. The sparkling sake added refreshing effervescence, lifting the subtle umami and sweetness of the finger foods.

Starters consisted of Kombu Cured Sea Bream with a sea bream-stock jelly mixed with mushroom and a side garnish, alongside a Scallop Miso Ceviche inside a scallop sashimi and topped with caviar. Paired with Dewazakura Omachi Junmai Ginjo sake, the sea bream was cured in kombu, deepening its umami while retaining the natural sweetness of the fish. The scallop miso added a creamy richness, balancing the slightly briny, oceanic notes. The sake, with its floral and sweet profile, perfectly complemented the dish, with rich aromas of banana, honey and rice.

Next up was the Nimonowan course in the form of a soup of Lobster and Prawn Shinjo. This dish was a showcase of refined simplicity. The clear soup had a delicate, clean taste that allowed the richness of the lobster and the tenderness of the prawn shinjo (a fluffy fish cake) to shine. The broth was light yet deeply flavourful, accentuating the natural sweetness of the seafood. This course was then served with a beautifully balanced sake – Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Junmai. For the sake pairing, we were invited to choose our own sake cup – each unique in colour, design and shape – and it was clear that every guest had that one cup that ‘spoke’ to them. Mine was a small wide-mouthed terracotta ceramic cup, slightly irregular in shape with a beautiful glazed finish.

Chef Yoshi’s sashimi was an exhibition of pure, unadulterated flavour. It was the evening’s showstopper course for me and proof that sometimes the simplest things can be mind-blowing when done right. Consisting of Turbot and John Dory alongside five sashimi offerings – Tuna (Chutoto and Akami), Icelandic Sea Urchin, Mackerel, and Cuttlefish, the course was served with two types of wasabi – a citrusy infused wasabi which paired deliciously with the white fish, and a classic wasabi for the sashimi. The pristine freshness of each cut allowed the fish to speak for itself. All paired with Koshi no Kanbai Chotokusen Daiginjo, a highly polished sake with delicate, fruity notes, which enhanced the natural sweetness of the fish while balancing the dish with a crisp, clean finish. The restaurant prides itself on using traditional 17th-century Japanese methods of fishing, which ensures unparalleled flavours and textures when preparing sashimi.

Course number five was another favourite of mine – Sushi, consisting of Sea Bass Sesame, Langoustine Ginger, Toro Aburi Truffle, and Crab Courgette. Each sushi bite was paired with Akitabare Suirakuten Junmai Daiginjo, a rich and rounded sake with an elegant fruity note that harmonised beautifully with the seafood, enhancing the nuanced flavours of each bite.

The Yakimono main course that followed was Eel Kabayaki and Wagyu Beef with a series of seasonal accompaniments. This dish was a symphony of deep, savoury flavours. The Eel Kabayaki was glazed with a rich, sweet soy sauce, offering a perfect contrast of smoky and sweet. The earthy, meaty flavours of Maitake and Girolles mushrooms complemented the beef, while the Egg Yolk Miso added a creamy, umami-rich element that enhanced the savoury depth of the dish. Sweet Potato provided a soft, sweet counterbalance. Paired with Tamagawa Tokubetsu Junmai sake, known for its bold, earthy profile and creating a truly satisfying flavour experience.

Last up – the sweet course – which was a Japanese playful take on a classic tiramisu dessert. Served in a truly artistic plant pot with a mini-watering can, we were invited to pour our sake over the plant pot ‘soil’ to ‘water’ the dessert – an exciting and utterly delicious sweet note to finish the evening. Paired with a Kokuryu Umeshu, a plum sake bursting with sweet, tart, and fruity notes that enhanced the rich, creamy flavours of the ‘charamisu’.

As if that wasn’t enough, we completed our extravaganza with petit fours in the form of chocolate almonds dusted with miso powder and small cakes made from genmaicha (a Japanese brown rice green tea, roasted rice and almonds), all washed down with a low-caffeine green tea, to truly mark the end of a perfect evening.

Overall thoughts? It’s UMU-azing. Where dinner meets theatre, but in the most unpretentious way, UMU continues to manage the perfect blend of tradition and innovation, precision and passion, sustainability and seasonality. It’s a masterclass in flavour, flair and fun mixed with authenticity in everything it does. It’s something all restaurants dream of, yet very few manage to perfect.

So here’s to the next 20 years of UMU.

Book here
E: Reception
T: +44 (0)20 7499 8881

Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International