Copenhagen is no stranger to culinary awards. Its eateries have been crowned The World’s Best Restaurant a total of six times over the past two decades, with Geranium Restaurant proclaimed Number 1 in 2022. As the first Danish restaurant to receive three Michelin stars, Geranium continues to be celebrated worldwide for its innovative approach to fine dining.

So naturally, I had to try it out for myself. And is it worth the hype? Absolutely.

This has to be one of my all time most memorable experiences; an evening of 16 magical food courses with sensational wine pairings. But what I find truly sets Geranium apart is its commitment to sustainability alongside the cherished Danish concept of hygge, which permeates every aspect of the dining experience.

*For those who haven’t come across it before, ‘hygge’ is a Danish word that describes a sense of cosiness and comfort, wellness and contentment, the cornerstone of Danish culture.

Co-founded by Chef Rasmus Kofoed and Søren Ledet, the restaurant name comes from the Geranium plant, a wonderfully aromatic plant, which fits the aim of the restaurant; to awaken the senses. And after five hours of eating, drinking, laughing and admiring, I can safely say every sense was aroused!

So let’s take a walk through an evening at Geranium…

There’s an element of Scandinavian understatement here. The restaurant is almost hidden away, only visible to those who seek  culinary exploration. This follows the discreet attitude of the Kofoed and Ledet themselves, maintaining a special humbleness despite the calibre and accreditation of their masterpieces.

Located on the top (8th) floor of Fælledparken (Common Gardens), the restaurant is sandwiched almost within the National football stadium. We enter an unassuming lift and are whisked up to the top floor of a seemingly normal building, but once those doors open up on the other side, it’s a whole other story. We step into a sea of warm beige, blonde wood, and modern Scandinavian decor. The large, light and airy space offers direct access to the chef in the central open kitchen, allowing guests to witness the meticulous preparation of each dish. Geranium blurs the lines between kitchen, dining room and with panoramic views of the park and water, inviting guests to taste nature while simultaneously observing it around them.

The evening is a whirlwind – we spend five hours moving from daylight to evening, mesmerised by the sun setting over the beautiful city. This is a whole experience in itself. As we enter into the evening, the restaurant becomes the ultimate hygge setting, with the city outside glittering whilst the open kitchen flames dance across the warm and intimate restaurant. But hygge is not just about the physical space, it’s about the atmosphere, the pacing, and the way each dish is presented. The restaurant encourages guests to slow down, savour each bite, and immerse themselves in the moment. This approach to dining—unhurried, thoughtful, and deeply connected to the present—embodies the very essence of hygge at Geranium.

Our table is situated next to the open kitchen – to be able to watch a three Michelin kitchen in action is an added treat. At any given time there were between five to a dozen chefs in the kitchen, all working in a symphony of energetic silence.

Since 2022 the restaurant has been meat free and the decision is aligned with Kofoed’s lifestyle, as he stopped eating meat years ago. His creative vision for the menu perfectly celebrates the best of local Danish and Nordic cuisine using local flavours, techniques, and ingredients.

The menu, which changes with the seasons, is a carefully crafted narrative that takes guests on a journey through the landscapes of Denmark. Each dish is a chapter in this story, with flavours that evoke memories of the sea, the forest, and the fields. The experience is both grounding and transcendent, a celebration of the natural world and the endless possibilities of culinary innovation.

We tried the “Summer Universe” menu, with the “Heart and Soil” wine pairings. The 16-course, five hour extravaganza included five appetisers, six savoury courses and five dessert servings, all served at perfect pace.

With no specific dish listed on their website, the full menu is a closely guarded secret until you take a seat at your table, adding to the anticipation. Upon seating, we are presented with a beautiful envelope, sealed with an embossed stamp and silver ribbon. Handed scissors, we are invited to introduce ourselves to the menu that awaits us.

The dishes that follow all feature seamless synergy between flavour, aestheticism and a sense of flow, owing to the innovation of Kofoed, with each one complementing the time of year it is served. Where some dishes pay perfect homage to a classic ingredient or dish preparation, others clearly push the boundaries of innovation in the food world. It’s these sorts of surprising twists that make dining at Geranium such a memorable experience; where what you see on the plate may lead you to make one assumption, but just one bite and you can be enlightened into a completely different taste sensation, provoking thought and conversation.

I won’t walk you through every dish and wine pairing, otherwise you may also be reading for the next 5 hours. But a few I can’t stop thinking about: From the appetisers, the Boiled beetroot from “Birkemosegaard” with horseradish, served alongside NV Prémices, Champagne Arthur Lelièvre. Beetroot is a frequent guest on Michelin star menus these days but I feel comfortable saying that this is the best beet dish I have ever had. The beetroots are boiled whole, with the skin on to keep the sweetness and juice inside of the beets. This, combined with the horseradish kick is an excellent combination of flavours. And the presentation is extraordinary – millimetre-thin, glowing, flower shaped cutouts of beetroot, carefully placed in a ring on the plate and interlaced with the same shaped cherry cutouts, with a savoury-sweet horseradish sauce served tableside for added excitement.

From the savoury courses, the Grilled scallops served with dried black currant and another sauce served tableside – an intense juice from the scallop roe. The scallops are sourced from the Northern part of Norway and are impossibly fresh. Served alongside a 2019 Roagna, Solea, Langhe Bianco, the fusion of floral, citrus, and tropical fruit notes enhances the scallop’s oceanic flavours with refreshing acidity, creating a harmonious and elegant bite.

And finally, from the dessert offerings, the Plums in two servings with yoghurt, sunflower and fig leaves was a delicate delight. The plums, prepared in two distinct ways, offer a balance of sweetness and tartness. Paired with creamy, tangy yoghurt, the dish is elevated by the earthy, nutty notes of sunflower and the aromatic essence of fig leaves. It’s a celebration of simplicity, enhanced by Chef Kofoed’s sophisticated touch. This was served alongside a fruit wine from Denmark, a 2018 Malus Danica from the Cold Hand Winery in the Randers region, a pairing of sheer brilliance.

Alongside the dining experience, we had a tour of the kitchen and restaurant, which included the incredible wine cellar, housing well over 2,000 bottles of premium wine, as well as the ‘Best restaurant in the world’ award. The extensive wine list is curated by Ledet, focusing on labels and flavours to complement Kofoed’s food, and there’s even a unique and refreshing juice pairing featuring creations such as rhubarb with geranium and carrot should any guest not want wine with their meal.

We also witnessed a special wine bottle opening during the evening, adding to the understated theatrics of the whole experience. For these highest quality, expensive wines, avoiding any part of the cork falling in is a priority. So we watched as a round branding iron was heated with a blowtorch around the neck of the bottle, melting the glass, before the entire top of the bottle (cork included) was removed. Watching this tableside performance was an honour, mesmerising the entire dining room audience, with a well deserved applause as the process was demonstrated.

The energy and passion of the staff at Geranium is palpable. From the kitchen to the service, the staff perfectly walk the line between utmost professionalism and authentic friendliness, really taking the time to get to know the guests and enhance the personalised experience. Their knowledge and passion for the dishes is unparalleled, sharing excitedly the concept behind each dish upon serving, the seasonality of the ingredients and the reasons behind the wine pairing choice. The team is a family and their comradery is contagious. It is clear this team is more than the sum of its parts – and you can pick up on this from start to finish – it is the reason behind the whole experience. Just like Copenhagen itself, Geranium is a genuinely happy place to be.

A lasting impact

Geranium’s influence extends beyond the dining table. In a world where fast-paced living often takes precedence, Geranium invites us to slow down, reconnect with nature, and find joy in the simple pleasures of life. It really is a testament to Co founders Kofoed and Ledet’s shared vision of a restaurant that not only delights the palate but also respects the planet.

By championing sustainable practices and pushing the boundaries of culinary innovation, the restaurant maintains its spot as a true leader in the global gastronomic community. Geranium’s commitment to sustainability serves as a model for other restaurants, demonstrating that luxury and environmental responsibility can coexist.

It’s a restaurant that embodies the best of Danish culture, offering a dining experience that is as thought-provoking as it is delicious, a true reflection of the future of gastronomy, and an experience that is worth saving up for.

My top tip? Book early – with Geranium focusing on a ‘one-of-a-kind’ experience, table covers are limited, to ensure every guest is looked after for the whole evening. So make sure you book your reservation months in advance.

W: Geranium Restaurant
E: Contact

Written by Emma Blunt for Luxuria Lifestyle International